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Surfer walking on Carcavelos beach at sunset, near Lisbon

Portugal surf guide

Surfing Cascais & Estoril

The urban beach break and Portugal's windiest big wave

8 waves · Best Oct-Apr · Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, Pro · From $40 a day

Photo: Sonse, CC BY 2.0

A capital city where you can surf before work and be at your desk by nine. Lisbon's coastline runs from the urban beach breaks of Carcavelos and Caparica to the powerful, wind-battered Guincho at the edge of Sintra's mountains, all a short train or drive from the centre of one of Europe's most beautiful cities.

LevelsBeginner, Intermediate, Advanced, Pro
Best seasonOct-Apr
RegionLisbon Coast
Daily budget$40–205
Nearest airportLIS

The waves at Cascais & Estoril

CarcavelosBeginner / Intermediate / Advanced

Beach Break · Best Sep-Apr · 1-6 ft · Crowd 5/5

W-SW swell, N-NE offshore wind, all tides; often flat in summer

Carcavelos is Lisbon's main surf beach, about 25 minutes by train from Cais do Sodré. It's a wide sandy bay that faces south-west into the mouth of the Tagus, so it needs a decent west or south-west swell to break, and in summer it's often flat. From autumn to spring it works much more often, from knee-high to overhead, with a north or north-east wind offshore.

There are softer banks for beginners and faster peaks for experienced surfers along the beach. Surf schools work here every day and it's always busy, but the bay is wide enough to spread people out. After heavy rain the water near the river mouth gets polluted, so give it a day or two.

Full guide to Carcavelos

GuinchoAdvanced / Pro

Beach Break · Best Sep-Apr · 3-8 ft · Crowd 4/5

NW-W swell, strong thermal wind, all tides

Guincho is a wide, open beach west of Cascais, where the Sintra hills meet the Atlantic. It takes the full force of the swell and is one of the most powerful beach breaks near Lisbon.

It's also one of the windiest beaches in Portugal, which is why it's popular with kitesurfers. Surf early in the morning before the wind gets up. The currents and shorebreak are strong, so it's not a beach for beginners.

It's at its best in autumn and winter, early in the day, when a north-west swell meets light morning winds. In summer the northerly wind, the Nortada, blows hard on most afternoons, and the beach belongs to the kitesurfers.

Guincho is inside the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, with a big car park and a few restaurants above the beach, and Cascais is about fifteen minutes away by car or bus. If it's too big or too windy, Carcavelos, on the sheltered side of Cascais, is the usual backup.

Full guide to Guincho

São Pedro do EstorilIntermediate / Advanced

Right Reef · Best Sep-Apr · 2-6 ft · Crowd 3/5

W-SW swell, N wind, all tides (left at high tide)

São Pedro do Estoril is a right-hand reef in the small bay at São Pedro, on the coast between Cascais and Lisbon. The rights break over a mix of rock and sand and can run a long way on a good swell. At high tide a left also breaks off the reef further down.

It needs a decent west or south-west swell to wake up, so it's mostly an autumn and winter wave, and north winds are offshore. The bottom is rock in places, which makes it a wave for intermediate and advanced surfers rather than a place to learn. Bica, a longer right, is just next door, and the lineup is mostly locals from Cascais and Estoril.

Full guide to São Pedro do Estoril

BicaIntermediate / Advanced

Right Point · Best Sep-Apr · 2-7 ft · Crowd 2/5

Clean SW-W swell, N wind, low tide

Bica is a right point on the rocky coast near Lisbon, with longer rides than the beach breaks around it. It needs a clean south-west to west swell, a north wind and low tide.

It's mostly surfed by Lisbon locals, who check it together with Bolina nearby. Suits intermediate and advanced surfers.

It's at its best in autumn and winter, when a clean swell wraps into the bay and the north wind is offshore. The point is close to the road between Cascais and Lisbon, so it's easy to check from the car. The local crowd knows it well, so be patient.

Full guide to Bica

BolinaIntermediate

Right Point · Best Sep-Apr · 2-6 ft · Crowd 2/5

Clean groundswell, mid tide

Bolina is a slow right point on the cliff-lined coast near Lisbon, close to Bica. It's softer and longer than Bica, and suits surfers who prefer flowing rides to fast sections.

Local surfers usually check both and surf whichever is better. It needs a clean groundswell.

It works on a clean groundswell at mid tide, usually from autumn to spring. It's a good choice when Carcavelos is closing out or crowded. Cascais and Estoril, nearby, have plenty of places to stay and eat.

Full guide to Bolina

Santo AmaroAdvanced / Pro

Right Point · Best Oct-Mar · 3-10 ft · Crowd 1/5

Big SW-W winter swell, N wind

Santo Amaro is a right point over reef at Santo Amaro de Oeiras, on the stretch of coast between Lisbon and Cascais. It sits inside the river mouth, so it needs a big swell to break, and it's one of the few waves near Lisbon that works when a south-west winter storm comes through.

When it's on, the rights are long and powerful and it suits advanced surfers. On normal days it's flat. The water near Lisbon can be polluted after heavy rain, so check before you go.

Full guide to Santo Amaro

Praia das MaçãsBeginner / Intermediate

Beach Break · Best Year-round · 2-8 ft · Crowd 2/5

Exposed; NW swell, E wind, lower tides

Praia das Maçãs is a beach break on the Sintra coast north of Lisbon, in a small village at the end of the old tram line from Sintra. It faces the open Atlantic, so it picks up a lot of swell and works at any time of year.

It's best on a north-west swell with an east wind, usually at lower tides, and it suits intermediate surfers; surf schools also teach here on smaller days. When it's too busy or not working, Praia Grande is five minutes away by car. Sintra's misty, forested hills back the coast here, which gives it a different feel from the city beaches near Lisbon.

Full guide to Praia das Maçãs

Praia GrandeIntermediate / Advanced

Beach Break · Best Sep-Apr · 2-7 ft · Crowd 3/5

Clean swell, N wind

Praia Grande is the main surf beach on the Sintra coast, north of Cascais, and a regular venue for surf and bodyboard contests. It's a consistent beach break with hollow peaks, and it's a little more sheltered from the north wind than the beaches around it.

It gets crowded quickly on good days, and the locals are competitive. If it's too busy, try Praia Pequena, the small beach at the southern end, or Praia das Maçãs to the north. Best on a clean swell with an east wind.

Full guide to Praia Grande

Where to stay in Cascais & Estoril

Moby Dick students carrying boards on a beach near Sintra
Moby Dick surfers waiting for waves under the cliffsSurf lesson on the sand with Moby DickThe Moby Dick surf lodge in Malveira da Serra, CascaisThe Moby Dick surf house in Colares, SintraRoom with a balcony and hill views at the Cascais lodgeDouble room at the Moby Dick lodge

Moby Dick Surf Camp

Malveira da Serra (Cascais) and Colares (Sintra) · two surf lodges in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park

from €325per person, 5 nights with 4 surf lessons, low season, in a room for 3–4
  • Two surf lodges, in Cascais and in Sintra
  • Guincho and Praia Grande about 5 minutes away
  • Transport, board, wetsuit and insurance included
  • Surf and yoga packs
  • Private and shared rooms

Moby Dick has two surf houses in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park: a lodge in Malveira da Serra, five minutes above Guincho, and a renovated house in Colares, near Praia Grande and Praia das Maçãs. Lessons last two hours and suit all levels, and the instructors pick whichever beach has the best conditions that day. Packs include transport to the beach, board, wetsuit and insurance.

Surf packs (low season)ForPer person
Surf Break
5 nights, 4 lessons of 2 hours, a tour
All levels€325
Surf and Yoga Break
5 nights, 4 surf lessons, 4 yoga classes, a tour
All levels€400
Best Surf Week of Your Life
7 nights, 5 lessons of 2 hours, a tour
All levels€415
Intensive Surf Week
7 nights, 10 lessons, a tour
Improvers who want more time in the water€540

Prices per person in euros, as listed on the camp's website, for low season (December to April) in a room shared by 3–4. Private rooms cost more, and prices go up in mid and high season (July to September is high). Both houses have a guest kitchen; breakfast is served from May to October and there are group barbecues.

Before
you go

Book ahead

Lisbon books up for general tourism, not just surf - reserve 3-4 weeks ahead in summer and around any major city event.

The water

Guincho in particular is powerful and windy, not a beginner spot. Carcavelos and Caparica are more forgiving but watch the rivermouth pollution after heavy rain near Caparica.

Who it suits

Guincho's wind and shorebreak punish the inexperienced; don't paddle out there without solid beach-break skills first.

Money

Cards work everywhere in the city; carry a little cash for beach kiosks and buses.

Best time to surf Cascais & Estoril

Cascais & Estoril works best around Oct-Apr.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
PrimeGoodQuiet

Portugal or Spain? Compared for surfing

Portugal or France? Compared for surfing

Guincho beach and the Sintra hills, near Lisbon
Photo: Alvesgaspar, CC BY-SA 3.0

Getting to Cascais & Estoril

Lisbon airport (LIS) sits inside the city itself, and the coast is reachable by train, bus or a short drive in every direction.

Cascais rail line

$2-4

A cheap, frequent train runs from central Lisbon straight to Carcavelos and on to Cascais. It's the easiest way to surf without a car. Boards are allowed outside rush hour; avoid the 8-9:30am commuter crush.

Bus to Caparica

$2-5

Frequent buses cross the 25 de Abril bridge to Caparica's long beach strip in about 30 minutes. In summer the Transpraia, a small beach train, runs the length of Caparica's beaches.

Rental car

$25-40/day

A car makes reaching Guincho and Sintra's coast far easier, and lets you chase the best wind and swell combo of the day. Parking at Guincho and Caparica is tight and paid in summer, so arrive early.

Beyond the surf

Cascais marina

Leisure

A polished seaside town with a marina, boutiques and easy access to Guincho and the Sintra hills.