Menu
Plan my trip
Palm trees and surf on the beach at Tortuguero

Costa Rica surf guide

Surfing Limón & the north

Reef ledges around the city and the wild Tortuguero beachbreaks

7 waves · Best Dec-Mar · Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced · From $34 a day

Photo: Yourface91 at English Wikipedia, Public domain

Costa Rica's short, wild Caribbean coast, a different country from the Pacific. Powerful, seasonal reefbreaks fired by short-lived storms off Colombia, an insignificant tidal range and a laid-back Afro-Caribbean style of reggae, rice-and-beans and reef. Home to the fearsome 'Caribbean Pipeline' of Salsa Brava, plus mellow beginner beaches, all backed by turtle-filled national parks and jungle.

LevelsBeginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Best seasonDec-Mar
RegionLimón
Daily budget$34–205
Nearest airportLIO

The waves at Limón & the north

Tortuguero BeachIntermediate

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-8 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E

Tortuguero Beach runs for kilometres along the national park on the north Caribbean coast, with endless beach-break peaks and rivermouths. There's no road: the only way in is by boat from Puerto Moín, which also reaches Parismina and Barra Colorado.

The banks move all the time and close out when it's big, but on a good north-east swell there are hollow, powerful peaks with nobody on them. The canals, jungle and nesting turtles are the main reason most people come.

It's best from December to March on a north-east swell. The waters off Tortuguero have a reputation for sharks, so ask locally before paddling out.

Full guide to Tortuguero Beach

Cocaine PointIntermediate / Advanced

Right Point · Best Dec-Mar · 2-8 ft · Crowd 1/5

Strong N swell

Cocaine Point, between Portete and Piuta near Limón, is a right that only breaks when the swell has a lot of north in it. That's an unusual direction for this coast, so it's inconsistent and uncrowded.

When a strong northerly swell arrives, it wraps into the point and peels well. Limón is an easy base for checking it along with the other reefs and beaches nearby, if you have a car.

It only works on a strong swell with a lot of north in it, from December to March. Limón is the nearest city, with simple hotels, and Puerto Viejo, about an hour south, has more places to stay.

Full guide to Cocaine Point

Playa BonitaIntermediate / Advanced

Left Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 2-8 ft · Crowd 2/5

Strong NE swell

Playa Bonita is the main beach near Limón. At its north end there's a thick left reef that gets powerful on a strong north-east swell, with fast, hollow sections.

You can watch it from the beach and walk out to it, and hotels and restaurants are close by. It's for confident surfers when it's big, and the reef is shallow on the inside.

It's at its best on a strong north-east swell from December to March, and Limón is a few minutes away.

Full guide to Playa Bonita

Roca AltaAdvanced

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 3-8 ft · Crowd 1/5

NE swell, high tide

Roca Alta is a right that breaks over rock ledges near Limón. On a solid north-east swell it's fast and hollow, but it gets shallow and tricky at low tide.

Higher tides are safer. It's only for experienced surfers, and because it's heavy, there are rarely more than a few people out.

Playa Bonita, nearby, is the more popular option.

Full guide to Roca Alta

Isla UvitaAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 3-10 ft · Crowd 1/5

Big NE swell, high tide

Isla Uvita is a small island off Limón, on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast, where Columbus landed in 1502. A shallow reef on the island throws heavy, hollow lefts on a big north-east swell.

It's best at high tide. You can take a boat from Limón or paddle across in about 20 minutes; jellyfish are more of a problem than sharks. It's for experienced surfers who are comfortable in hollow waves over shallow reef.

On other days, Playa Bonita and the beaches south of Limón are the options.

Full guide to Isla Uvita

WestfaliaBeginner / Intermediate

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-5 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E

Westfalia is a long, empty black-sand beach south of Limón, on the road to Cahuita. The beach-break peaks are consistent but close out once the swell is bigger than about four feet, so it's best on small days.

You'll rarely see another surfer. Nearby, at the mouth of the Río Banano, Barco Quebrado often has better-shaped banks.

It's best on small to medium north-east swells, from December to March. There's very little on the beach, and Cahuita, about twenty minutes south, has the places to stay and eat.

Full guide to Westfalia

Barco QuebradoIntermediate

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E, rivermouth

Barco Quebrado is the mouth of the Río Banano, on the Westfalia stretch south of Limón. The river shapes the sand into better-defined peaks than the beach around it, so on a north-east swell it's usually the best bank along this coast.

It's easy to miss from the road and almost always empty.

It's best on a north-east swell from December to March. The river can bring currents after rain. Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, further south, have the places to stay.

Full guide to Barco Quebrado

Where to stay in Limón & the north

Avoid Limón city itself for lodging (bar the Park Hotel), head to Playa Bonita or up to Cahuita. Tortuguero is a boat-in world of its own from Puerto Moín. This coast is extremely wet; take wet-weather gear. Petty crime and street hustle are real in Limón, stay aware.

Surf camps in Limón & the north

We are adding local camps we trust to this page. Run a surf camp or surf house here? We would like to hear from you.

Before
you go

Book ahead

Puerto Viejo and Cocles have plenty of hostels and cabinas, easy to book, busier in the Dec-Mar swell season. Tortuguero lodges (boat-in) should be arranged ahead. Avoid Limón city for lodging.

The water

Extremely wet climate with intense downpours. Salsa Brava's power and sharp coral are the main danger (semi-gun and reef sense essential); jellyfish appear in the murky water at times. Water is generally safe; sun and bugs year-round.

Who it suits

Street crime and hustle are real in Limón and, at night, in Puerto Viejo town. Stay aware and don't flash valuables. Salsa Brava is expert-only; don't paddle out under-gunned. Ignore anyone offering drugs on the street.

Money

ATMs in Puerto Viejo and Limón are reliable; carry cash for the smaller southern villages and Tortuguero. US dollars are accepted alongside colones.

Best time to surf Limón & the north

Limón & the north works best around Dec-Mar.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
PrimeGoodQuiet

Costa Rica or Panama? Compared for surfing

Indonesia or Costa Rica? Compared for surfing

Palm-shaded beach at Playa Bonita, near Limón
Photo: AndSalX-WWECR, CC BY-SA 4.0

Getting to Limón & the north

San José is 4h from Puerto Viejo by road; the paved coastal road gives easy access to the surf. Tortuguero is boat-only. A bicycle is the local way to move around Puerto Viejo.

Rental car / bus

$30-50/day

The paved coastal road makes driving easy, and Puerto Viejo is 4h from San José; buses from San José's Gran Terminal del Caribe serve the whole coast cheaply. 4x4 not needed for most breaks. The bus is cheap and easy for this coast, a car only helps if you want to explore the quieter southern beaches.

Fly to Limón (LIO)

$60-120

Sansa and small carriers fly San José to Limón (LIO), saving the road journey; from there it's a short hop south to the surf towns. Handy if you want to skip the 4h drive, but check the limited schedules.

Boat to Tortuguero

$10-30

A boat from Puerto Moín is the only way to the northern breaks of Parismina, Tortuguero and Barra Colorado, because there's no road. For the wild northern beachbreaks, the boat and a self-sufficient plan are essential.

Bicycle

$3-6/day

The whole Puerto Viejo-Manzanillo strip is flat and best explored by bike, cheap, easy and how the locals get to the waves. Rent a bike in Puerto Viejo; it's the perfect way to check Cocles, Punta Uva and Manzanillo.

Tourist shuttle

$30-50 per seat

Shared shuttles link San José with Puerto Viejo door to door, the easy option if you don't want to drive. Boards travel for a small surcharge; book the day before.

Beyond the surf

Tortuguero National Park

Wildlife

Jungle canals, nesting green turtles and abundant birdlife, reached only by boat or plane, a Caribbean Amazon.

Cahuita National Park

Nature

A reef-fringed park with sloths, monkeys and snorkelling on the coral, right beside Playa Negra.

Limón & Bri-Bri culture

Culture

Afro-Caribbean Limón (Springfield nightlife) and the indigenous Bri-Bri communities inland, a different Costa Rica.